The first part of the trip began in Bellagio, on Lake Como.  A place not to be missed.  Awesome mountain scenery, cute small towns, and a great ferry system to make exploring easy.  And the ferries had inside rooms so wimpy travelers like us don’t get too wet.  Our favorite hotel is high above Bellagio, and is called Il Perlo Panorama.  As you might expect, the panoramic views are spectacular, with amazing lake views and a stunning look at the imposing Swiss Alps that frame the lake.  In fact you can take your car on the car ferry to Switzerland in about 15 minutes, and avoid the 1-hour plus drive around the lake on narrow winding roads.  Since the Perlo is a small family run hotel, and only listed as a 2-star (should be rated higher), the atmosphere is very, very friendly and the rates great.  Be sure to get a view room with balcony to really enjoy the location.

Hoping the weather will improve along the Mediterranean coast we head for another perfect spot, in a town called Bordighera.  This is the perfect place to stay and explore the Italian Riviera.  Within easy reach by car or train is San Remo, the Cinque Terre, and Monaco.  Bordighera has a small train station that is less than a 15 minutes ride to Ventimiglia where you can link up with trains all over northwestern Italy, and direct to Monaco.  What better way to get to the Monaco Grand Prix with no traffic and parking hassles?   And for 7Euros round trip, a bargain.  Bordighera has beaches, some shopping, and delightful but small old town.  Great food in old town.

The Monaco Grand Prix is another of those experiences you just have to do.  Even if you’re not a car nut.  It is the ultimate 4 day “happening” packed with people, media, and excitement.  The race is on Sunday, but the most fun and best viewing opportunities happen on Thursday, called a practice session.  Tickets for the grandstands are about $100 versus $750 for race day, not very packed with fans, and seating is not assigned.  So you can move around and get some amazing photos and video.  And from some of the stands you can see the pits and the mechanics working on the cars.  A must for all car fanatics!  So I would never miss Thursday

And Friday is also not to be missed.  There are no Formula1 sessions Friday, but in the morning they have the GP2 race event.  Pretty much the same car types, but a smaller, shorter event and the same street track.  Oh, I forgot to mention that the race track are the streets of Moncao…they are closed off for all the sessions and the races.  But on Friday after lunch a real treat happens.  They remove some of the barricades and us race fans can walk the track and get up close to the pit areas, and some of the auto mechanic operations.  And the media trailers, and what’s called the paddock area, where each race team has their temporary on-site headquarters.  So Friday is amazing, with a morning GP2 race, and the opportunity to explore the track and the race activities.  Another day not to be missed.  And Free!

Saturday at Formula1 events is qualifying day to determine the starting order of the cars.  It’s an interesting and exciting session, but frankly you can’t see much since the cars tend to be isolated trying to get fast times…no racing or passing.  And the grandstand seat prices are pretty high and seats are reserved so no ability to roam around.  Sunday is race day, and unless you pay big for the prime locations you again can’t see much of the race.  There is a lot of high speed, and cars do pass, but only in certain areas.  So for me this day is not as up close and personal, besides being really expensive…and really crowded.  My thrills come from getting close to the cars, drivers, and track, and not from being crammed in with a million screaming race fans.  Anyway, that’s just me.

So the bottom line is the Monaco Grand Prix is one of the most colorful and exciting excursions for the travel, car, and photography enthusiast.  And the Italian and French Rivieras are jewels.  Lots of beautiful coastal towns like Nice, Cannes, Juan-les-Pins, etc. in France, and San Remo, the Cinque Terre, and of course Bordighera in Italy.  Stay in Bordighera, rent a car, and make use of the trains for easy day trips.  A lot to see and enjoy.

Having done both the Christmas Eve service and Easter Vigils I can say its worth fighting huge crowds and standing in long lines.  And sometimes it rains…and is very cold.  So then, what is the procedure and what should you expect?  First comes getting “tickets”, something I didn’t realize the first time (we actually wound up watching the service on local Vatican TV).

In order to get in line for Papal events you normally need to arrange for tickets in advance.  They are free and can be reserved through the Vatican website, or at St. Peters before the actual date.  Be aware they hand out lots of tickets…way more than the “seating” capacity of St. Peters.  So if you don’t get in line early, you won’t get into the basilica and might get a seat outside in the square (you can watch the service on big screen “pope TV’s”).  And even if you are in line early, and near the front of the line, you still might not avoid the crush and get a seat.  So why do I call it a crush?  Read on.

On our first trip to attend Christmas Eve mass, my wife and I were typical dumb tourists.  We figured all you had to do was show up early, stand in line, and get in.  So we arrived at 5pm for the service scheduled to start at 9pm.  It was cold and damp, as usual in Rome in December.  We took some snacks to keep us busy and hopefully a bit warmer.  And locating the rest rooms helped, too.  So we stand, eat, and talk with others.  Then reality hits.  We have no tickets…never heard of them.  Do they still offer them?  No.  Back to the hotel.  Maybe we can watch the service on TV.

A few years later we decided on another visit.  This time in April for Easter.  Some pre-planning scored 2 tickets which we could pick up 2 days before the Easter Vigil service.  We were assured we had figured out the process.  And besides, there were other Eastertime events we could see with little or no adance planning.  In fact we attended several Papal events at St John Lateran Basilica that rivaled the Vigil mass.  Smaller lines and no tickets.  But no seats…they all were saved for “special” folks.  And Friday night was maybe the best event.  At the Colloseum, the Pope leads “The Way of the Cross” from inside the Colloseum up the Palatine Hill.  The only catch is to arrive early to get a good vantage point.  I have my secret place and have gotten some great videos.

So back to the St. Peters crush.  With tickets in hand we head out to the Square to get in line for the Vigil Mass.  It starts at 9pm, so we arrive at 5pm.  They have barracades setup like a maze near the metal detectors.  At the entrance to the maze they have some additional wooden barracades in a line maybe 50 feet long.  This area is already full so we are lucky to get a spot where I can easliy get to rest rooms with my wife “holding” my spot.  This works OK for the first hour.  But the crowds swell and the line gets not only longer but wider.  After 7pm its almost impossible to leave your spot and get back in.  Oh well at least we have secured a close in location.  And we get to talk with lots of people and make some friends.

As the next 2 hours go by, the “line” becomes a jam packed crowd.  Tighter and tighter.  Now we can’t even move our arms to reach into our pockets.  Forget about eating anything, or even attempting to make a rest room visit.  We are locked in.  And idiots are climbing over the barracades.  Where are the cops?  This looks like trouble in the making.

As we get close to the time when they open the gates, we decide that our survival is more important than trying to stay together.  When the heard breaks loose, we should do our individual best to get through the metal detectors and meet up on the other side.  Wise choice.  But we still underestimate the task ahead.

I’ve never been involved with such a situation where I felt I had no control.  When the gates open its a free for all.  No way could you not get carried along with the heard.  And if you fell I’m not sure how you would survive.  And these are supposed to be religious “Christians” showing love for their fellow man?  Bunch of animals.  Where are the cops.  Where is the crowd control?

Bruised, exhausted, and sweaty I finally get through the metal detectors to safety.  My wife and I reconnect, and breath a sigh of relief.  Is that what a religious experience feels like?  So off we hurry into the Basilica.  Now to find a seat.  Funny I thought we were at the front of the line.  Pretty much the last row.  At least we can sit for a while.  The service begins and we thank God for being alive.  The rest of the night was awesome and maybe worth the crush.  Now, next time if we can just score better seats….

Traveling for 20 years or more I’ve seen and done things a lot of people would be amazed at.  Some even amaze me.  So herewith are several travel stories that might show you how to “yack it up, and get perks”.

• Dealing with airline’s counter and gate agents has its ups and downs.  It’s important to realize that these folks take a lot of abuse from crabby travelers, both business and pleasure types.  My opinion is that schmoozing goes a long way.  A classic example occurred on a recent return trip from London to Los Angeles (an American airlines flight, whose agents are not known to be very accommodating).  I normally travel business class to Europe, using flight miles.  It helps me relax a bit even if I can’t sleep on planes (I think I’m overly aware of my surroundings, always).  My flight was direct to LAX, and on a great plane…the 777.  Business class is pretty good, but First has what I call cubicles.  Fully reclining bed, jump seat, work table, and 2 windows.  But I feel the extra mileage surcharge for First is not always worth it, so Business class works for me.  So I check in early, and begin schmoozing.  “I’m willing to take an upgrade to First”, I joke. The agent and I continue to chat.  Then it happens.  Some friends of the agent just got married, and are going to LA for their honeymoon.  The agent hopes to get them into Business class as a treat.  Only 1 seat is open.  But I’ve offered mine in trade.  Voila, I’m now in First and the happy couple sits together in nice Business Class comfort.  And I get my little cubicle.
• Flight Attendants are also a fun source for perks.  Especially in classes other than coach.  Somehow when you sit in Business/First they assume you just might be “somebody”.  So play a part and be somebody.  Strike up a conversation about travel, food, or wine.  For example if you obsess about the great wine they serve, you probably will get very frequent refills.  And in some cases, which I can attest to, you just might get a bottle to go when you land.  On a recent flight I chatted with the Attendant about French wines…and gave her my business card.  “I write a wine blog”, I told her.  Instant status and a fun conversation ensue.  As we disembark, she hands me a small shopping bag with a full bottle of a nice French wine they served.  A great perk for the first night in a new city.
• How often have you joked with a hotel clerk about getting a suite, or balcony view, when you check in?  Always?  Did it ever work?  It has for me on several occasions.  Here’s a classic one.  My wife and I went to Hawaii using a timeshare week.  We also booked a weekend stay at a Marriott using a “free weekend, timeshare sale” special.  That’s the deal where they give you a room for a few nights for free (or cheap) in exchange for your time to attend a sales presentation.  So when we checked in I joked “I assume the free room is an ocean view suite”?  Well, maybe.  Actually it was a corner suite hanging over the main beach with 2 balconies.  Pretty nice perk, even if we had to endure a sales pitch.  Well the pitch never occurred.  But we really enjoyed the perk.
• Many travelers complain that French people are hostile and unfriendly.  That depends on your attitude, and not always theirs.  A case in point for us happened during a week-long tour of lovely French chateaus in the Loire Valley.  We were not familiar with the Chateaux concept, and never heard of a club called “Relais & Chateaux”.  Simply its a collection of amazing restored castles and country houses all over France (and most of Europe) that offer great rooms with the intention of having you buy an expensive (but awesome) dinner.  The room prices are not generally bad, but the kicker is dinner.  Our first stay in such a place happened by accident.  We booked a room in a small chateaux we found in a travel book.  It was October so prices were low, and rooms available everywhere.  When checked in, as always I talked with the owner a lot.  I stressed our love for France and the Loire area.  Points?  Since the chateuax was only partially filled, they decided we were nice friendly Americans…and gave us their suite shown on their postcard.  Same price as the basic room.  But it gets better.  At checkout time I see the fancy book that lists all the Relais & Chateaux properties.  We have not booked any future rooms yet, and just planned to drive the Valley until we see a good place for the night.  Then a light bulb moment happens.  If I decide where we might end up that night, maybe I can get this Chateaux owner to call ahead for us.  Besides they all speak French, and my language use is pretty limited.  It works.  She calls ahead to another R&C property.  When we arrive that evening, the perks continue.  Another suite at base room rates.  So the next day we do it again…it works again.  Maybe we found the secret…let one chatueax call another.  Referrals equal perks.  By the way, we are now R&C members, which gets us more perks.
• A great perk getter is writing a blog.  Or use your job/business and always ask for something out of the ordinary.  They main key is to be jolly, happy, positive, and interested.  Some jobs lend themselves to acquiring perks.  Suppose you’re responsible for sales or marketing meetings.  Or doing industry trade shows.  Flash your business card to hotel people, rental car agents, restaurant folks, etc.  Even a subtle comment (with a hidden request) can get a pleasant surprise.  And what about doing a blog (I do one on wine and one on travel)?  If you focus on anything travel related you would be amazed just what you can get.  Many years I ago I created a website devoted to basic wine information.  Its called WineNews.com and its really just a fun hobby for me.  I even ordered cheap business cards that I hand out.  That proves to be a conversation starter and gives you instant “expert” status.  Perks usually follow.  And blogs can be used to solicit lots of freebies.  So get cracking/writing and get some rewards for your hobbies and avocations.

My first stop after the long USA to Italy flight was in the northern Alps area of Italy…a place called Aosta valley.  Awesome beauty, not too crowded, and well located for exploring scenic mountains and villages.  Driving to Aosta was a breeze.  But finding the hotel I booked was a daunting task…took me 2 hours driving in circles, parking and walking, and trying to follow directions by locals (in Italian).  As I finally located the small place I started to think the travel gods were against me.  Although Aosta is a cute town, it’s very small, and so is the hotel.  And I felt like I was getting a cold.  And my plan was to stay here several nights and explore the area’s scenery.   Maybe things will turn positive on day 2?

After a tough 1st nights sleep, even with excessive grape medicine, I awoke with a new attitude.  And a new plan.  Check out early and head off to Rome.  Now if I can only get the hotel guy to let me leave early with no penalty, and if only I can book my favorite Rome hotel.  Praise be, the travel gods are at work.  Turns out the hotel really needed my room for someone else.  And on-line I was able to secure the Rome reservation…they had a cancellation.  Good timing is everything!

The drive from Aosta to Rome takes about 6 hours.  Traffic is light and weather perfect.  And my car is a Volvo convertible.  Open air, and fun.  Another piece of good fortune.  I’ve often tried for a convertible but never connected before.  Things are looking great

Since I’ve driven to, and into Rome before, I arrive with no mistakes.  And with good fortune it’s only 3pm, so no city traffic.  I breeze into the Borghese parking garage with intention to pay to park for 3 days.  Pricey but convenient.  Oops, wrong turn into garage…I enter the rental car area.  Heck, since I have a Hertz car maybe I can talk the counter girl into letting me park there.  I have doubts.  But the travel gods are smiling and I’m able to schmooze the nice girl into a free parking spot.  She then gives me a “get out of garage free” ticket to use when I leave.  Now one last request…can she get me a taxi to take me to the hotel.  You bet…yes!

Traffic in inner city Rome is always a zoo.  And now it’s getting towards rush hour, and besides it’s September.  So lots of tourist all over the place.  Glad the taxi guy is a typical aggressive Italian.  Actually he drives like me.  As we approach my hotel, the streets are closed by security people.  We get stopped.  “What gives”, says the driver (my guess for his Italian).  “Cinema”, says the cop.  A movie?  Yep, turns out my hotel is center stage for the new Julia Roberts movie, “Eat, Pray, Love”.  We get admitted so I can check in.  Cool, a movie being filmed outside my hotel.  And even, more luck, just outside my room’s window.  I can even see the balcony across the way where most of the movie takes place.  The good timing continues.

After a fast unpacking, I head off to St. Peters…it’s now about 5pm.  No crowds this time of day.  Perfect for getting some great “no people in the picture” pictures of the Basilica inside.  Even a shot of the St. Peter statue with no people.  Timing.  And as the sun sets, it pours onto the main altar through the small windows in the cupola.  An amazing effect and almost religious.  The travel gods, or ???

For 3 days in Rome the sun shines.  And the temperature is not too bad.  I see everything as usual, and eat my brains out in my favorite places.  As I depart, with my “get out of garage free” pass, I’m thoroughly satisfied.  Hope the rest of the journey is as good.  Or better?

My original plan after Rome was to go back to the Alps and drive some of the mountain roads and take lots of pictures.  But something called me in the Piemonte region…I’ve heard Barolo wine is Italy’s best.  And besides I’ve not been to that area yet in my travels.  Since I also do a wine blog, I have some contacts in the US and in Italy.  A friend the in States told me about a well respected restaurant in the Barolo area, that also has rooms.  So before leaving Rome I got on-line and took a chance.  I sent Nino Rocco, who runs Da Felicin in Monforte, an e-mail.  Any possibility of a room for 3-4 nights?  Normally they are booked in September, but amazingly he accommodates me.  And since he’s heard I write travel and wine articles, he goes above and beyond.  I nab an apartment in their new building!  Bedroom, kitchen, nook, balcony, etc.  All just recently renovated.  And for a major discount, since I offer to write his place up on my blogs.  Timing, timing, timing.

Nino treats me like family.  I get a private tour of his wine cellar, and a list of local producers to contact.  And on my first night’s stay, he treats me to a full course 3 hour dinner!  I only pay for wine.  So what the heck, a vintage Barolo (probably costs more than the dinner).  From 9pm to midnight I indulge.  And finish the bottle alone.  Amazing food, great wine, and personal service.  It doesn’t get any better than this.  The only down side, is my apartment is in a separate building from the restaurant, and up a steep cobble stone street.  Thank the travel gods I’m walking…although not too well.

Another 4 days in Italy and the sun continues to shine.  Top down travel through the Piemonte and up into the Italian Alps.  Lots of miles, smiles, and photos.  Lots of great lunches and awesome northern Italian wines.  Life is good.  Could it get better?

The Formula1 Italian Gran Prix is at Monza, just outside Milan.  Extremely crowded always…and race time is a nightmare.  Where to stay?  Realizing Lake Como, and Bellagio, are less than an hour from the track, I opt for a special small place my wife and I love.  It’s called Perlo Panorama and sits high up above the town of Bellagio.  Tremendous views, nice friendly family (we get a Christmas card from them every year), and low prices.  Since I’m a long time, returning guest I score a “sort of suite” room.  Big, with a balcony and view to take your breath away.  The travel gods continue to smile.  And so do I.  Now on to the race.

Before leaving for this trip I attempted to contact Formula1 press department.  I want to do an “inside the ropes” story and hope I can get some type of press access.  No luck, but hey I only write a blog.  Then another idea…what about contacting the television media that does the race?  So I e-mail SpeedTV, a division of Fox Sports.  Can they somehow get me inside?  They respond “no”, but say they will forward my request on to Peter Windsor.  He does the pit interviews for all the Formula1 races.  I expect to never hear any more on the subject.  Wrong!  Within hours, Peter e-mails me back.  He invites me to meet him at his hotel, near Monza, and maybe he can borrow some credentials to get me in.  We set a time and I’m encouraged.

Peter is very gracious, but over dinner he says it might not work out.  Oh well, at least I had the “good fortune” to meet with him and talk Formula1.  But it does get a bit better.  He invites me to the Saturday evening pre-race party in Como.  At the Palace Hotel.  On the water in Como.  Free.  I accept, of course.  Could it get better?  At the party there is lots of food, wine, and many race fans.  Great conversations.  Peter shows up and gives a short talk.  Afterward I stop over to thank him for inviting me.  He’s seems glad to see me, and introduces me to his partners (they are forming a new race team for the 2010 season). Ken Anderson is his technical partner and a wine nut.  They tell me they need a “team wine” which I could help with.  “But of course” I say.  They invite me to dinner so we can chat about cars and wine.  The travel gods continue to smile.

Race day is Sunday.  But Friday and Saturday are practice days, and almost as much fun.  And less crowded.  On Friday I take the train from Lake Como to the Monza track.  Great choice.  No driving and parking to worry about, and the train station is literally at one of the track entrances.  My timing is perfect as I arrive during the height of the Friday practice.  Few people, leaving the bleachers empty and affording great photos and video.  I’m in car nut heaven.  As practice ends people start milling about.  I head for the pit/press areas.  Maybe I can just stroll in like I belong.  It works.  Although not the total inner sanctum, I am in the general press area just in time to see the press folks hovering around Ferrari’s new driver Fisichella.  I get some up close photos, just like the real press people.  Timing.

As the practice session comes to a close, I head out to the train station.  I suck down a cold beer as the train arrives.  Back to Lake Como and a relaxing evening.  But nature has a surprise for me.  Up to now the weather was perfect, clear and warm.  As I settle in for the evening a typical Alps storm approaches.  Wow, lots of lightning and thunder.  All out over the lake.  I grab the camera and get some awesome lightning shots.  And some cool video with booming thunder.  Could it get better.  Absolutely…a brilliant rainbow at sunset.  The travel gods smile again.

The Gran Prix is everything I could hope for.  And the entire trip was amazing.  Good weather, good scenery, good food, good wine, and good fun.  Too bad I have to go back home.  If only the flight was not so long and uncomfortable, even in Business Class.  Well the travel gods smile once more.  I always arrive at the ticket counters pretty early.  I love to chat with the agents and schmooze.  “I’d be pleased to take an upgrade to First” I joke.  Especially since this plane is a 777 that has cubicle like “seats” big enough for a small family.  I love these areas with a full size bed, a small secondary seat, a work table, and 2 windows that you can swivel your seat to face. After our good chuckle about an upgrade, I get my final piece of travel fortune.  Turns out the agent has newly married friends…and they need an additional Business Class seat so they can travel together.  Presto…I give them my seat, and I am now in First.  It’s all about timing!  And I thank the travel gods.

My small room, and I mean small, had few amenities.  And no refrigerator.  That meant that whatever food items were purchased needed to be consumed in short order.  Too bad, since lots of really great cheese is available…but typically in large chunks.  Eating it all would surely cause digestive problems.  And I hate to waste good food.  And cheese makes a great snack on a long train ride…with wine of course.  What to do?

As I said, when on vacation, so is the brain.  Light-bulb!   Its winter…and cold outside.  I’m in a small room, up high, with windows…and window sills.  Instant refrigerator!  So I can store all my train travel goodies safely outside on the sill.  Nice and cold.  If only it doesn’t rain, and what about those famous Venice pigeons?

The A line connects the north-west of the city with the south-east. It currently has 27 stations with terminuses (end points) at Battistini and Anagnina. Work on the A line began in 1964 in the Tuscolana area but were subject to a series of delays caused by poor organization.  The originally planned method of construction of cut and cover posed serious problems for road traffic in south-east Rome so work on the metro was suspended.  It began again 5 years later, using bored tunnels which partially resolved the traffic problems but caused numerous claims for compensation arising for vibrations caused by the boring machine.  Work was also frequently interrupted by archaeological finds made during the excavations, particularly near Piazza della Repubblica.

As typical Rome tourists we all do a lot of walking.  Sites are all over the city.  I have my favorite hotel which is near the Piazza Navona.  From here many of the sites are easily reached, but several are pretty far away.  For example the Caracalla Baths are quite a hike.  And so is St. John Lateran Basilica which is the Pope’s actual church.  And so is my favorite restaurant, Cannavota.  The metro lets me do this cross town trip quite nicely.  I typically use the metro for 1 direction and then walk back, passing other sites like the Colloseum, Forum, etc.  Sure saves my legs for another day.

As with any other method of transportation in Rome, just be careful.  Theft is not a big problem unless you look like a target.  Try to look “local” and like you know what you’re doing.  And as with all places in any major city, shy away from lots of shiny bobbles worthy of a thiefs attention.  And fanny/belly packs…yikes.  Nothing makes you a bigger target (or look dumb) like these aweful adornments.

To see the metro map and for more info, click Here.

But the whole point of this trip was the places we would see.  If you ever cruised you might know that every “shore excursion” is a-la-cart.   And not cheap.  But they got you and you simply have to do the excursion.  Unless some of the stops can be done independently…like the one at Santorini, we discovered. At this stop instead of paying the $100 each to stay with a group and ride a bus, we opted to pay a taxi guy for the afternoon.  Much, much cheaper.  Plus we could stop whenever a great view appeared, and when a winery was in site.  Willing to bet we were the only ones on the cruise that did some wine tasting along the way.  And besides, we eventually would up at the site of the Santorini ruins just before the tour group bus.  Nothing like being alone to get great pictures.

So why do I call this “Tour Bus Idiots”?  The Santorini tale above is not the reason.  The stop in Egypt is the reason, and so is the one in Jerusalem .  Here we had no choice since the port is about 2-3 hours ride (bus only) from the sites.  In Egypt the port of Alexandria is at least a 3 hour bus ride from Cairo.  Across some fairly dangerous looking countryside on a toll road.  So dangerous in fact that with our 4 buses we rode along staggered using both lanes so no other vehicles could cut us off.  And the guy riding the front seat of each bus wore a large coat under which was a large weapon…just in case.  Of what we didn’t know.  As we ride along it starts to get boring and many people sleep and complain.  Our first “idiots” were just behind us.  All they wanted to do in Cairo was to shop.  The heck with the museum and the pyramids.  And lunch seemed high on their agenda.

As we get close to Cairo center, our tour guide (who has been selling custom jewelry like mad) demands our attention concerning Cairo museum rules.  And particularly in regard to cameras.  They are OK but it’s mandatory to purchase, for merely $1, a voucher for each camera to show the guards.  She stresses this point at least 5 times.  Everyone seems to understand…except those “can’t wait to shop” idiots.  The bus pulls up at the museum to unload.  We will then proceed through metal detectors into the museum.  The bus leaves, hopefully to return to scoop us up later.  So guess who has a camera and no voucher?  You bet, the “idiots”.

Our tour guide, not very pleased, says we should wait outside while the “idiots” arrange for their cameras.  Not acceptable to me.  So I pull her off to the side and ask when the bus is expected back…my plan is to go in alone and be back at the appointed hour.  No way we could get lost.  She refuses to answer me…so I ask again, and again.  I’m pretty pushy.  Finally she tells me the time, and my wife and I go in.  The group waits.  Too bad.

For about an hour we cover the entire museum.  No crowds.  Great.  And I get some amazing pictures of the Tut mask and exhibit…with no people in them.  Awesome.  Since my wife loves tour books, she acts as my private guide.  All the information I could hope for, and no hoards of people pushing and shoving to see inside display cases.   As we look over the second floor balcony we spy our group, dutifully following the guide like lost sheep. At least we know they got in.  At the designated hour we head for the exit, rejoin the group, and get back on the bus.  Mission accomplished.

From the museum we ride to the pyramids…but with a stop at the local jewelry store to pick up the customized trinkets most people ordered on the bus.  Guess the “idiots” will be happy for a while.  But the jewelry stop takes longer than anticipated…excessive shopping probably.  So we arrive at the bus stop just below the Giza plateau.  We are presented with 2 options.  For a fee you can ride a camel up the hill and look really geeky, or you can continue up on the bus.  We decide on the bus, since I’ve never had an urgent need to ride on a hump.  Good choice.  Since the jewelry stop was too long we now only had maybe 15 minutes to see the pyramids.  And low and behold, the folks on the humps wasted most of that time getting up the hill.

Then next on to the Sphinx.  Well we’re so late that the visit inside the Sphinx area is about to close.  We can only take pictures from outside and marvel at this amazing antiquity.  I need to get a better angle so I decide to walk up a small side area for some additional photos.  Our friendly tour guide attempts to stop me.  Nice try.  I paid thousands of dollars to see this and some little tour girl will not get in my way.  She’s pretty perturbed, but hey I am tourist.  And possibly an “idiot” as well.

I often wonder why people travel to Europe, and expect to be greeted in English and never try to understand or assimilate into the local culture.  If your goal is to simply see sites, visit museums, and take tons of pictures, maybe traveling the great old USA would be better.  When I go to another country my main reason is to see how other folks live, eat, work, and play.  Their culture is what interests me, and how it’s different from ours.

Over the years, sad to say, most of Europe has caved in and now caters to the American tourist.  They now have fast food places (yikes), try to speak English, and tailored their food to foreign tastes.  Is their real heritage disappearing?   Did we force them to do this?  And what gives us the right to expect them to make these changes?  I have to admit I had a lot more fun traveling Europe when it was difficult and confusing.  It was the challenge and the learning that made a great trip.

Today when I go there I see 2 types of traveler.  Let’s call them the “independent traveler” and the “tour groupie”.  I’m a totally independent traveler, and do all my own planning, reservations, and site research.  Tour groupies just show up at designated times and places, do nothing to appreciate or understand local customs, and are typically “ugly American” tourists.  Boy the Europeans hate them.  And treat them like dirt.  And enjoy taking all their money.

We have many close friends at our local church that are older (like us) and travel a lot.  We have never even considered going on their group tours, which might be fun since we all get along.  Why?  Their idea of a great trip getting up at the crack of dawn to pack up all their stuff (usually tons of it) and have it ready for pickup at their hotel.  Then onto the bus to get to then next town. Then late morning site-seeing, group lunch with no choices, afternoon site-seeing, hotel check-in, group dinner, and unpacking.  Repeat for several days.  But here’s the rub for me.  I’ve heard that buses have been adorned with USA flags and banners…announcing the Americans are in town.  Now that’s “ugly”.

So how are ugly Americans treated?  Mostly tolerated, but never raised to the level of “local”.  Here’s a great example of the different treatment and respect.  In France, my wife and I stayed at a well known gourmet food place.  OK rooms, but awesome food.  And very French in style and attitude (not a bad thing).  As an independent tourist interested in local language and customs, I always attempt to communicate in the local language.  Not well, mind you, but passable and normally appreciated.  I’ve been corrected at lot but, hey, I’m learning.  Waiters in France are different than here.  They do not intrude, ever.  Instead they respond to your requests for attention and service, and that includes getting the bill.  So how should you proceed?

I always greet the staff in their language and go from there.  I also normally know what special food items are from the region, what water they prefer, and what wine is local.  All this knowledge earns me points toward being treated very well.  So in the gourmet restaurant my efforts at French dialog actually get us several menu options not listed or even anticipated.  For example, a 5 course dinner (prix fixe) usually offers limited choices for appetizer, main course, and desert.  Well this time none of the main courses thrilled me, but after hesitation I made a choice.  The waiter understood my hesitation, but said nothing.  But when he took the order to the kitchen, he soon returned.  The chef permitted the waiter to offer me an off the board choice.  I accepted and was surprised.  The points earned paid off.

But here is the fun part of this story.  Across the room was a table of  “tour groupies”.  I’m not sure how they got into this place, but maybe it was one of their “evenings at leisure” with no set dinner.  Anyway, that group acted like this was the local Olive Garden.  Lots of loud talking (yelling), plenty of action, and rude treatment of the entire staff.  Nothing like high finger clicking to get a waiter’s attention.  And obviously no French, only English.  Well, not only did they not get any menu alternatives, after dinner the chef came out and thanked my wife and I for enjoying the restaurant.  On his way back to the kitchen, only a glaring glance to the groupies.  Same for most of the other staff.  Once again, “ugly”.

Having been to Italy many, many times over the last 15 years, my food experiences have covered a very broad range.  Everything from basic pizza to specialty pastas to rare and exotic meat dishes.  And lately some really aweful offerings, possibly due to giving the tourists what they want or are willing to accept.  The rule today is either you get food or ambiance.  Good food in out of the way places, or bad at the Piazza’s so you can people and site watch.  My rule has always been only go where the locals go.

Time was that no food was really bad in Rome, even at tables along famous piazza, such as the Piazza Navona.  In general it was all edible and authentic.  And the waiters were actually Italian and spoke as such.  Some years ago, my wife and I took my mom on a whirlwind tour of Rome, Florence, and Venice. We had always raved about the food, knowing most Americans don’t really believe Italy’s pasta is better than local supermarket pasta.  My mom anticipated great food, amazing sites, and lots of walking.  We delivered on all counts, but there is a disappointing food story here as well.

The Food Lowpoint

We flew mom (First Class) from California to Milan.  My wife and I were already in Italy so we picked her up at Malpensa airport.  Even in First Class one gets very tired and exhausted spending 15-20 hours in the air.  With no sleep in maybe 24 hours, we whisk mom in the backseat of a nice Audi from Milan to Rome.  The countryside is beautiful but mom naps a lot.  Besides I drive fast so scenery kind of blurs by.  We arrive in Rome late afternoon.  Mom is hungry.  The Piazza Navona is a very short walk from our favorite hotel, so we go and see if we can get some pasta.  All the good, locals places are now closed since lunchtime is over (after 3pm).  How bad can it be?

As I said before, years ago it was mostly impossible to get bad pasta in Rome.  Even along the piazza it was acceptable, so I was optimistic.  Turns out even American supermarket pasta would have been a delight.  Yikes, thin sauce and soggy pasta.  Great if it came from a can…maybe it did.  So lesson learned, stay away from piazza side tables.  We got the point, and now know better.

As an aside, mom looked forward to Venice so she could pick up some t-shirts for people back home.  Ha, we tell her, they don’t sell such junk in Italy.  Wrong again. The visit to Venice revealed tacky tent-carts full of cheap junk.  And you guessed it, t-shirts.  I thought Italy had tradition that never changed?

The Food Highpoint

Normally on trips to Italy we don’t splurge on high end food, only high end places to stay (I prefer suites).  On a subsequent visit to Rome, my wife and I were celebrating a wedding anniversary.  So let’s go crazy and see if we can find the most expensive place to eat in all of Rome.  Success!  Just around the corner from favorite hotel (Portoghesi) is a very inconspicuous place called IL Convivio.  No signs or windows so you have to know it’s there.  We secure a reservation, a must, for later in the week.  How good can it be, and how much can it cost?  How exciting.

Dinner in Italy is normally late, typically after 9pm.  So after hours of siteseeing we clean up, dress up, and prepare for something special.  We are elegantly seated at a nice private table in a corner of a lovely, well decorated small room.  Quite romantic.  As my wife sits an attendant brings out this really cute, small, velvet stool and places it at my wife’s side.  A foot stool we reckon, but why was it situated at the side of the chair?  Turns out to be a “purse cozy”, so the typical Italian leather purse doesn’t get soiled sitting on the floor.  That’s a first for us.  From that point forward we’re convinced an over-the-top evening is underway.

Dinner treats include green pasta with duck ragu sauce, rolled veal, etc.  And for desert, amazing chocolate cake with dark Italian chocolate sauce.  And maybe the best tiramisu we ever tasted.  Great food, great wine, and great ambiance.  Great anniversary celebration.  And great (meaning large) price.  Worth every lira, if just for the purse stool story.

Since it was our anniversary we decided on a second high end meal adventure.  We heard great things about a place locals go to celebrate called Papa Giovanni.  Not far from the Pantheon, and another place requiring reservations.  We book a table, again for late PM.  Strange place, this, since it seems quite casual inside and yet the food is rated gourmet class?  We shall see.

Coffee flavored pasta with walnuts, green tomatoes over gnochi, stuffed veal with cheese and truffles. And ceme brule with ginger for desert.  Every bit as good as IL Convivio…and every bit as expensive.  But, alas, no purse cozy.  Well you can’t have everything.  A great place nonetheless.

Favorite Places

Since I have been to Italy, and Rome, maybe a dozen times or more I do have my favorite haunts.  I never miss 2 places, and normally I do lunch.  Eating dinner after 9pm after hours and hours of walking doesn’t appeal to me.  Besides having lunch means it’s OK to consume vast quantities of wine at mid-day, and another similar quantity in the evening.  I do love my wine, but only red.

Anyway back to my favorites.  Near Piazza Navona, where the antique district begins, is a small place named Tre Arche (3 arches as you might guess).  It’s really small (maybe 10 tables) and real authentic.  Usually only locals.  Run by the same family forever, this place has simple pasta dishes that are some of Rome’s best.  They also do good meat dishes, and on holidays like Easter, maybe lamb.  Great preparation and sauces, but typical Italian meat…not always as good as US meat.  If you can speak a little Italian here you get treated as a local.  Nice.

Another place I never miss is Cannavota.  Never!  No English spoken here, which is strange since they are on a very large, main street just across from St. John Lateran church.  Lateran is actually the Pope’s real church and there is an alter there that only the Pope is permitted to use.  Back to Cannovota.  The best Amatriciana pasta dish I ever tasted!  Perfect tomato sauce and plenty of red pepper spice.  This is maybe my favorite dish in Italian cooking, and Cannovota’s makes the best “Amatrice”.  My wife has tried other pasta here, including seafood pastas, and they are all really awesome.  Just be aware you’ll need to use your hands to order if you cannot speak Italian.  They do however have a few menus in English, but the 2 brothers that work the tables refuse to attempt English.  And mama who works the cash register also speaks only Italian.  Some tradition still lives!

Several other places of note in Rome are worthy of your tourist dollars (Euros).  Here is a short list.  Check your guide book for locations, but typically most of them are not far from Piazza Navona.
> Osteria dell’Antiquario – in the antique area.  Great food, outside tables, but a bit pricey.
> Monteforte AI Coronari – again the antique area.  Somewhat elegant, pricey, but open on Sundays and Holidays.
> Terra Di Siena – south of the Piazza Navona.  Really good Tuscan style food.
> Tullio – another Tuscan place.
> Giolitti Cafe – maybe the best Gellato and pastries.  Sandwiches too. And great espresso.

> Tickets, Passes & Stations
> Reservations & Seats
> Classes & Cars
> How to read timetables
> Planning your route
> City Names
> Special Trains
> Food & Drink
> Baggage

STATION BASICS:

It’s important to note that many European cities have multiple train stations. Cities like Berlin, Paris, or Madrid use different train stations for different travel directions. So it’s critical to know which station your train departs from before you head out to catch a train. In general major railway stations are centrally located and well served by public transportation – trams, metros or busses.  Just be sure to go to right station.

On all stations you will find signs in the station and at platforms showing departure times and train number listings. At major stations huge computerized boards offer up-to-the-minute schedule and platform listings as well. After checking the schedule and departure platform, it’s time to find your train. Numbers posted near the train’s door or on a window show if the car is 1st or 2nd class; some trains have both classes in one car. Also, destination placards and car numbers are placed near the door of each car. Trains can be split and sent in diferent directions, so make sure the car you’re in is going where you want to go. You should be ready to board the train the minute it arrives; station stops are often very short unless boarding is done at the beginning of the train’s route.

If you have made a reservation, you have to check the car number and seat number printed on the ticket. Once the car is found, finding the right seat is easy. If a seat is reserved in a compartment, a sign on or next to the compartment door showing the seat’s number must match the seat number on the ticket. For open-car seating, seat numbers are on the headrest. Travelers have to be prepared to vacate a reserved seat that does not belong to them if the rightful seat-holder arrives.

Regarding luggage, trains have either overhead storage racks throughout the car, storage room behind the back of your seat or luggage areas at the end of the car. You will have to carry the luggage yourself and luggage placed in the luggage racks remains under the sole responsibility of the traveler. Its is advised to clearly and legibly label your hand luggage with your name and address.  Most stations provide left luggage offices or lockers, and major railway stations will have luggage carts for your use. Very few stations still have porters. In the stations there will be pictograms showing where luggage rooms or luggage carts can be found.  So pack lightly!

TICKETS & PASSES:

Obviously you need a ticket to travel on the train.  You can buy individual trip tickets on-line or at each train station.  If you only want to go from A to B then a simple ticket is OK.  But if you plan on lots of travel to many places then consider a pass. Eurail Passes (also known as Eurorail Passes) offer a flexible European rail travel experience that allows stopping anywhere, anytime you like: you choose your number of countries and your number of travel days.  They need to be purchsed prior to the trip and have various limits as to how many countries and how many travel days you can use.  Passes are available for either 1st or 2nd class travel…we recommend 1st class since the price is not much higher.  For example you can buy a 3 country pass for 5 travel days for under $500.

One very important thing to know about tickets and passes is “validation”.  Just because you have a ticket/pass doesn’t mean you can travel on the train.  Each ticket and rail passes MUST be validated each time you board…or you face a possible stiff fine by a conductor.  Somewhere in each station, usually near the platform where the train departs is a small (sometime yellow) machine used to time stamp the ticket.  This is called “validation”.  It tells the conductor you are OK to be on the train for a specific date only.  Make sure you understand this and know how to validate the ticket/pass.

RESERVATIONS:

A Eurail Pass does not guarantee you a seat! Most rail journeys do not require advance reservation, but for some popular trains a seat reservation is compulsory. Night trains require a supplement (additional fee) for the sleeping accomodation. Seat reservations are required for some trains, for others it is recommended. You can book train seat reservations up to 90 days before the travel date. Advance reservation is recommended during high-season, holidays and rush hours. Reservation costs are not included in a Eurail Pass. They vary widely depending on the country, type of train and class.  Seat reservation is usually not possible for local or regional trains.

During high-season (summer months) we advise you to reserve far in advance. Some popular trains, like the Thalys, TGV or Alaris, have a limited number of seats for Eurail travelers. Advance reservation is also recommended if you must reach your destination on a certain day and time, for instance to catch a flight. Most high-speed and overnight trains require an advance reservation. In the Eurail timetable that you receive with your Pass, trains with compulsory reservations are indicated by the symbol R. For example, the Thalys from Brussels to Paris is subject to compulsory reservation. Online timetables also indicate when reservation is necessary.

Night trains or sleeper trains take you over large distances during the night, saving you the cost of a hotel. There are several sleeping options for comfortable traveling overnight. These options may differ per train type, and could be a sleeper seat, or a 1 or 2 person compartment (couchette). Reservations are usually compulsory. They can be made in advance at a train station (especially in the summer season, on holidays and in weekends). Off-season, during non-peak times, you can also ask train staff if there is vacant accomodation.

TIMETABLES, ROUTES, AND CITIES:

A good rail timetable is absolutely necessary to plan your rail trip. Schedules come both printed as well as online, and you should use them to look up the departure and arrival times of trains. Also, the duration of the trip and the type of train is mentioned. Be aware that train schedules change regularly, so it’s recommend that you always consult online timetables in addition to the printed ones.  Eurail travelers receive a free Eurail Timetable booklet (including a rail map of Europe). This compact train schedule contains a summary of the main European train routes. You can also download this timetable.

Some rail companies in specific countries offer printed timetables, and also on-line ones. In these timetables, you can find the various options for traveling between main European cities. In the details of your trip, you can see whether a train needs a reservation, and you can compare trains and travel times. In the DB (Germany) timetable you can also look for regional trains only. By doing this, you will be looking for trains which take longer, but generally require no reservation or supplement. You can consider ordering one of the renowned rail timetables from Thomas Cook Publishing. They offer a European Rail Timetable (monthly updated) or the European Rail Timetable – Independent Traveller’s Edition (published twice a year).

Many trains make multiple stops, unless they are “express” trains.  So it’s critical to know which train goes to which city.  Obviously local trains can be very slow and take a long time.  Also be aware that European cities may not be spelled the way you think.  For example what Americans know as Turin, Italy is actually Torino.  So you gotta know the right names.

CLASSES AND CAR NUMBERS:

Numbers posted near the train’s door or on a window show if the car is 1st or 2nd class; some trains have both classes in one car. Destination placard and car numbers are also placed near the door. Trains can be split and some cars sent in different directions, so make sure the car you’re in is going where you want to go.

FOOD & DRINK:

Many European long-distance trains have full-service restaurant cars offering breakfast, lunch and dinner. Others trains offer light meals, snacks and drinks in a buffet car. You could check an on-line timetable to see if a specific train will carry a restaurant or buffet car. At the station you will often find small shops where you can buy drinks, snacks or sandwiches. Some larger stations will even have a small supermarket within the station. It is quite customary to bring your own food or drink on the train, and we encourage that option.

SPECIAL TRAINS:

You can travel by train through Europe on a large variety of special trains. Would you like to flash past European cities? Cross high cols with snow-capped mountains, along deep ravines, seeing the most beautiful crystal-clear lakes? Or reach your next European destination while dozing away in your private compartment? Here are some special trains.

High Speed Trains:

* up to 187.5 mph (300 kmph)
* comfortable 1st and 2nd class seats
* widespread high speed network throughout Europe

Overnight Trains:

* sleep comfortably while you travel
* 1, 2 or more beds per compartment
* breakfast included

Scenic Trains

* travel on Europe´s most scenic routes
* breathtaking views
* some scenic routes are part of UNESCO World Heritage

Special trains mostly require a supplement and a compulsory reservation. The prices vary per train and per country, but will normally be somewhere in between EUR 3 (approx. USD  4) and EUR 16 (approx. USD 25).  If you want to book a bed on a hotel train there will be an extra charge that varies from EUR 13 (approx. USD  20) to EUR 67 (approx.USD 100) mainly depending on how much privacy you would like to have.  Also note that the number of seats available can be limited. Therefore advance booking is highly recommended. Most trains can be booked up to 3 months in advance.